The walled garden at The Grove — a wide grassy lawn under a canopy of trees.
Chapter 02 · 13–15 Jun 2026

The Grove

Three hundred acres of Hertfordshire, an 18th-century house, and the longest sleep we'd had in months.

Hertfordshire, UK three nights
two kids, one harpist
A short history est. ~1750

The Grove sits on three hundred acres of Hertfordshire countryside, a half-hour from London. The mansion at its heart is 18th-century — once the seat of the Earls of Clarendon — and the house only became a hotel in the early 2000s. The Lounges, where we stretched afternoon tea into a full dinner, are 250 years old. A harpist played in the corner.

A custom travel journal for the kids.
The travel journals I made for the kids. They've really taken to them.
01 — In the room

Free, finally

First time the kids could run around since California, twenty-some hours ago. They threw themselves at every surface — balcony, bed, closet — like they'd been holding it in. We let them.

Noah and Layla on the balcony of the hotel room.
Out on the balcony, taking in the grounds.
Noah spinning inside the closet.
Noah, spinning in the closet. As one does.
Layla lying on the bed.
Layla, claiming the bed.
Layla dancing on the bed.
And then dancing on it.
02 — Out into the grounds

A walnut tree, a stick, a fountain

We pointed at things and the kids ran toward them. A giant walnut tree first — one nice photo, then immediately a sillier one. Noah found a stick that was almost as long as he was. Then we wandered toward the water features, into the walled garden, past the kids' yurt and the pool we'd come back to. Three hundred acres takes a while.

Noah and Layla under a giant walnut tree.
Noah and Layla under the giant walnut tree.
Noah and Layla in a silly pose under the walnut tree.
Same tree, sillier pose. The progression was inevitable.
Noah with a huge stick.
Noah, with the longest stick in Hertfordshire.
Jess, Noah, and Layla by a water feature.
Jess, Noah, Layla — by one of the water features.
Family posing by the water feature, take two.
Take two.
The three of them walking toward the pool.
Onward, toward the pool and the activity yurt.
The walled garden at The Grove.
The walled garden. Wide open lawn, canopy of trees, the kind of place where you'd happily eat a slow meal while the kids run. 15:50 BST
Layla on the grass, leaning on Trevor.
Layla, on the lawn, leaning back into me.
03 — Cupcakes, harpist, bedtime

The longest day, ending

Cupcakes in the kids' yurt — sprinkles everywhere. It was, incidentally, Noah's birthday: six years old. The cupcakes (and this trip) were what he got. Then the Lounges for an early dinner: 250-year-old room, harpist in the corner, people around us having tea while we stretched ours into a full meal. I read the kids a book back in the room and almost fell asleep mid-sentence — those involuntary twitches you do right before you go under. Bath, Peppa Pig, both of them out in five minutes with the TV still on. I was in bed by 7:30. I woke up the next day at 8:30. Layla woke up once, asked where she was, accepted the night light, and went back down. After a brutal travel day, this was the soft landing.

Inside the kids' activity yurt.
The kids' activity yurt.
Noah and Layla making cupcakes.
Cupcake assembly. Sprinkles deployed liberally.
Layla asleep at the dinner table.
Layla, finally undone. Asleep at our 5pm dinner.
Layla in a cheek-forward sleeping pose.
Cheeks forward. Pure Peanuts.
Noah and Layla in a bubble bath.
Reanimated for bubble bath.
Layla asleep in the extra bed.
Layla, in the extra beds beside ours.
04 — Mini Landies

A small electric Land Rover, a big forest

We woke the kids up at 9:30 for our 10am reservation, fed them chocolate croissants on the walk over, and Layla wigged out for a moment before climbing in — then sat happily on my lap with her croissant for the duration. The forest was beautiful. Birds, flowers, wooden animal cutouts hidden in the trees.

Noah driving the mini Land Rover.
Noah at the wheel, Jess riding shotgun.
Noah and Jess in the mini Land Rover.
Mid-drive, mid-grin.
Noah and Layla in the pink mini Land Rover.
Showing off the certificates they earned for driving the Mini Landies. 10:30 BST
05 — Adventure playground

We had the whole place to ourselves

We'd spotted the playground from the Mini Landies. The play structures had so much character. And it was empty: just us.

Noah and Layla in the rustic wooden play structure.
One of my favorites from the whole trip. 10:59 BST
Noah and Jess on the swings.
Layla on a wooden seesaw.
Layla going down the slide.
06 — Pool day

Coffees, sushi, pottery, more pool

We headed to lunch and discovered the kitchen wasn't open until twelve, so we just got drinks. Cappuccino, biscuit on the saucer, orange juice for Layla, mango juice for Noah. Quietly perfect. Then poolside lunch — Noah on his sushi (again), Layla in a bathrobe leaning on me with a sandwich. They broke up swims with a stop at the activity yurt to paint pottery: Layla very carefully on a duck, Noah triumphant with a clay heart. Indoor pool, outdoor pool, back to the room.

A cappuccino with a biscuit.
A cappuccino, a biscuit, no rush at all.
Layla with her orange juice.
Layla, in agreement re: drinks-only.
Noah eating his poolside lunch.
Noah's poolside lineup: smoothie, fruit, sushi (again).
Layla in her bathrobe, leaning on Trevor.
Bathrobe, sandwich, full lean.
The three of them painting pottery.
Back in the yurt — pottery this time.
Layla painting her ceramic duck.
Layla, full concentration. The duck never stood a chance.
Noah holding up his clay heart.
Noah's clay heart. He was extremely pleased.
07 — The Glasshouse

A buffet that took itself seriously

Bath, then dinner downstairs at the Glasshouse. Made-to-order tagliatelle with fresh-grated truffles. A carvery. Sushi. Ramen. Lobster tails. Curries. And a dessert cart that included a chocolate fondue and a mousse bar. Layla had her first ice cream — strawberry, sprinkles. Noah had a manic kind of joy I'd never seen on him before, somewhere between the mango sorbet and the gummies.

Layla in a bubble bath.
Layla, pre-Glasshouse.
Noah in a bubble bath.
Noah, also bubbles.
Layla and Jess walking to dinner.
Layla and Jess, dolled up, on the way down. 19:00 BST
Layla eating strawberry ice cream.
Layla's first ice cream. Strawberry, sprinkles.
Noah in a state of dessert-induced euphoria.
Noah, fully unhinged on mango sorbet and gummies.
08 — Departure

The case of the white bunny

Started the day by barely making it to the Glasshouse breakfast buffet. A short walk on the grounds after, then back to the room. I'd been up since 5:30 for some reason — took a nap while the kids watched TV. Woke up with not nearly enough time to pack before our taxi to the Harry Potter studio tour. And then Layla lost her small white stuffed bunny. I asked the front desk, they called housekeeping, I checked the restaurant, I retraced her steps, nothing. We assumed it was gone. As we were heading out for the taxi, the front desk caught us — they'd found a white bunny! They'd bring it to the front for when we got back. When we returned that evening, we asked to see it. It was a different white bunny. Some other kid's white bunny. Ours, it turned out, had been sitting on Layla's bed in the room the whole time, found by the cleaning crew.

Three nights, four meals, one harpist, one misplaced bunny.

— The Grove, fin.